BERLIN ELEGY 2008
The
hotel room was pure 1970s with the kind
of
plumbing that won the Cold War. It overlooked
Adenauerplatz
in the west of the city. O Adenauer,
first
Chancellor of West Germany.
There
were some trees, a fountain,
a
few dark and quirky old shops.
Even
the pigeons seemed to have an accent.
“Tell
me, you stones, o speak, you lofty palaces!”
On
the bed with its tortilla duvet
and
overstuffed ravioli pillow, I would lie
as
the morning bustle increased outside
and
pondered whether
I
would turn left past the sex shops and head
for
the Charlottenburg U-bahn station,
Wilmersdorf,
the palace, the museums
or
turn right and make the epic walk
to
the East. I would meditate
on
what churches and art galleries I would visit,
in
which café I would take lunch,
upon
which bridge I would pause and gaze
across
the Spree, watching it pulled
like
silk from a bolt, like history under my eye.
Unlike
the Berliner hoards, I had the luxury
of
pausing, of observing them in wonder.
The
baroque buildings seemed
more
real to me than they
incurious
at the exotic Antipodean
interloper
in their midst,
not
seeing further than my blond hair, serious
demeanour and polite “Guten Tag”.
So
every morning, I would lie there,
Berlin
dawn streaming through the theatrical
curtains,
considering the possibilities: which Casper
David
Friedrich painting I would stand before,
hands
clasped behind my back; which new detail
would
catch my eye – the statue
of
a little girl and her cat on an apartment building,
or
the bust of Minerva on the pediment
over
the entrance to the Prussian Academy;
the
sun catching the backs of the horses
on
the Brandenburg Gate,
or
just think about the one somewhere in the city
who
was not beside me for these moments,
but
by then I was dapper dressed
to
applaud Berlin, and the Berliners their Berlin-ness.
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